Passalacqua’s terraced gardens above Lake ComoAerial view of Bellagio’s point, with Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni on the water beside the village

Head-to-head · Lake Como

Passalacqua or Villa Serbelloni?

Two historic hotels full of antiques, and very different stays. Passalacqua is a 24-room villa in quiet Moltrasio that only its guests can enter. Villa Serbelloni is a 90-plus-room grand hotel in the middle of crowded Bellagio. Here is how I would choose.

Toured Passalacqua · Stayed at Villa Serbelloni · October 2026

Choose Passalacqua

My pick of the two

A whimsical 18th-century villa run like a private home, with terraced gardens, a Moroccan-inspired spa and no outside guests. The best honeymoon hotel on Lake Como.

My Passalacqua review →
Passalacqua’s pool and terraced gardens above Lake Como
Choose Villa Serbelloni

If you want Bellagio and the water

Very historic and beautifully maintained, with a stunning modern spa, a little speakeasy bar I loved, and a pool, beach and floating pier for the best swimming on the lake.

My Villa Serbelloni review →
Villa Serbelloni’s sand beach with loungers and umbrellas, and a floating pier on the lake
Side by side

How they compare

PassalacquaVilla Serbelloni
WhereMoltrasio, on the west shore just north of ComoBellagio, where the lake’s branches meet
My visitTouredStayed
Size24 roomsMore than 90 rooms
The lookWhimsical: antiques the family collected over time, and lots of wickerFrescoes, chandeliers, damask and antiques; a bit too old for my taste
The feelRun like a private home; staff remember your nameFormal service that’s still warm
Outside the doorA quiet village without much going onBellagio, which is incredibly crowded
Room to bookThe Junior Suite Al Lago; Palazzo and lakeside rooms are generousA lake-view room with a balcony
SpaMoroccan-inspired, with a tunnel to the lower gardensStunning and modern
SwimmingA pool in the terraced gardensA pool, a beach and a floating pier; the best on the lake
DiningTwo restaurants, guests only; plan dinners out by boatThree places to eat and a speakeasy bar, plus Bellagio at the door
Getting thereAbout an hour by car from MilanCar to Como, then about 30 minutes by private boat
Best forHoneymoons, milestones, two couples traveling togetherLovers of historic hotels and art, swimmers, travelers set on Bellagio

Work with me and you get Fora perks, typically a space-available upgrade, daily breakfast and a hotel credit, plus someone who knows these hotels personally: I chase the hardest confirmation on the lake at Passalacqua, request a lake-view balcony room at Serbelloni, and book the cars and private boats. Same rate as booking direct.

The question behind the question

Total privacy, or the lake’s busiest village?

Passalacqua is unlike anywhere else in the world: a 1787 villa that’s meant to feel like your own home, with 24 rooms and no outside guests. It’s the best honeymoon hotel on Lake Como, and recently named the world’s best hotel. I loved it, though it isn’t my personal style; with two restaurants and a quiet village, I’d want a livelier base after a couple of nights.

Villa Serbelloni is an interesting hotel, and I’m still making up my mind about it. It’s very historic and beautifully kept, the spa is stunning, and in summer it would be the best hotel on the lake for swimming. But the decor is a bit too old for my taste, and Bellagio is incredibly crowded.

Passalacqua sits above Villa Serbelloni in my ranking, and for a honeymoon or milestone it’s the one. If you love old Italian hotels and art, want to swim in the lake, and Bellagio is the point of your trip, Serbelloni is a beautiful choice.

The detail

What to know before you choose

Aerial view of Bellagio’s point, with Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni on the water beside the village

Quiet Moltrasio or busy Bellagio?

Passalacqua is in Moltrasio, a quiet village near the town of Como without much going on. With only guests allowed in, it feels genuinely exclusive, and when you want to go out, dinner across the lake by boat is the best way to do it. I set it up.

Villa Serbelloni puts all of Bellagio’s restaurants outside the front door. The catch is that Bellagio is packed with day-trippers. It was crowded when I stayed in October; July and August would be a nightmare. You can visit Bellagio easily by boat from almost anywhere on the lake.

A Passalacqua suite with a gilded headboard and rose damask walls

Two kinds of old

Passalacqua is whimsical, filled with antiques the family collected over time and lots of wicker. The Junior Suite Al Lago is the room I show for milestone trips; it opens right toward the water. Rooms in the Palazzo and the lakeside rooms are generously sized, while rooms elsewhere can be small, and most rooms see the lake in the distance.

Villa Serbelloni is very traditional: frescoed ceilings, chandeliers, damask walls and antiques, all beautifully kept. If you love that, you’ll love it here; for my taste it’s a bit too old. Ask for a lake-view room with a balcony.

Passalacqua’s Moroccan-inspired spa lounge, with vaulted ceilings, stone columns and brass lanterns

Spa and swimming

Passalacqua’s spa is Moroccan-inspired, with vaulted ceilings, old stone columns, pierced brass lanterns and peacock wicker chairs, and an underground tunnel leads down to the lower gardens. It’s one of my favorite details on the lake. The pool sits in the terraced gardens; clients who stayed recently found the pool service slow.

Villa Serbelloni’s spa is stunning and surprisingly modern for a hotel this historic. For getting in the water, it has the best setup I’ve seen on Como: a pool, a beach and a floating pier you can jump into the lake from.

A room at Villa Serbelloni with a balcony over Lake Como

Getting there, and booking ahead

Passalacqua is about an hour from Milan by private car. It has only a handful of suites, so it’s the single hardest confirmation on the lake; the sooner we hold dates, the better. It stays open through New Year’s, later than most of the lake.

Villa Serbelloni is in the middle of the lake, and the road from the town of Como takes 45 minutes to an hour, narrow and winding. I arrange a private car from Milan to the water in Como, then about 30 minutes by private boat to the hotel’s dock.

Before you ask

The questions I get

Which is better, Passalacqua or Villa Serbelloni?

For me, Passalacqua. It’s the best honeymoon hotel on Lake Como and only its guests can get in. Villa Serbelloni is right if you love historic hotels and art, want to swim in the lake, and Bellagio is the point of your trip.

Which is better for a honeymoon?

Passalacqua, #05 in The Fifteen, my honeymoon shortlist. The honeymoon I’d book is two nights there, then ten minutes by boat to Il Sereno. Here’s the pairing.

Can I visit Passalacqua without staying there?

Generally, no. Passalacqua’s restaurants and spa are for hotel guests only. If you’re a client of mine staying nearby, I can sometimes arrange a lunch or a tour.

Which is better for swimming?

Villa Serbelloni, with a pool, a beach and a floating pier into the lake. Passalacqua has a pool in its terraced gardens.

Should I stay in Bellagio?

I’d steer most clients away from sleeping there. Bellagio is very crowded, even in October, and it’s easy to visit by boat. If Bellagio is the point, Villa Serbelloni puts you right in it; if you’re weighing it against another classic, I usually steer clients to Villa d’Este.

Which room should I book at each?

At Passalacqua, the Junior Suite Al Lago, or a room in the Palazzo or a lakeside room. At Villa Serbelloni, a lake-view room with a balcony.

Still deciding?

Tell me your dates and who is coming, and I will tell you which one fits and which room to ask for.

Traveling within the next 30 days? You will hear from me today.

Passalacqua review → Villa Serbelloni review → Il Sereno or Passalacqua → Villa d’Este or Villa Serbelloni → My Lake Como guide →