Written from the room, not the brochure

Santorini

The island that introduced the world to Cycladic luxury.

Mykonos

Luxury meets its playful side.

Paros

The island everyone quietly falls in love with.

Sifnos

The island where Greece slows down.

Milos

Nature’s masterpiece in the Cyclades.

Folegandros

Dramatic cliffs, unhurried luxury.

Greece

Athens

Much more than a gateway to the islands.

Wine country

Napa & Sonoma

Nine hotels, ranked from personal stays.

The Adriatic

Montenegro

Hotel-by-hotel reviews, updated as I visit.

France

Zannier Île de Bendor

Provence’s private island, ready to book.

The map

Featured Destinations

Italy, Paris, Greece, Japan, Africa & Mexico — and the hotels I’d send my own family to.

Torn between two?

The destination head-to-heads

The either⁄or questions I’m asked most, settled honestly — with the hotel decisions nested inside each.

The headliners

Santorini or Mykonos

The caldera, or the island with another side.

The lookers

Paros or Mykonos

Same good looks, better food, a third of the attitude — or the scene.

The pairing question

Paros or Milos

The eating island or the swimming island.

The quiet middle

Milos or Sifnos

Where I spend my own time — the water or the table.

Wine country

Napa or Sonoma

My ranking says one valley; my calendar says the other.

The Athens Riviera

Astir Palace or Aesthesis

Choose your Riviera flag — the peninsula or the beach scene.

The fine print

The logistics

Ferry Planning

Five Greek ferry rules to know before booking anything.

Island-Hopping Mistakes

Three mistakes couples make between the Greek islands.

Santorini Transfers

The cheat sheet for getting there, and getting around.

Private Boat Transfers

Island to island on your schedule, not the ferry’s — from €1,000 per boat.