Destination guide · Italy
The Dolomites,
valley by valley
Where to base yourself, the five luxury hotels I stayed at or toured in October 2026, when to go, and how to get there.
Destination guide · Italy
Where to base yourself, the five luxury hotels I stayed at or toured in October 2026, when to go, and how to get there.
In the Dolomites, the question isn’t which hotel is “best.” It’s why you’re going.
Coming for the spa and the views? For hiking from your door? For skiing? For restaurants a short walk away? Each valley does something different, and the answer decides where you stay.
I stayed at Forestis, Gardena Grödnerhof and COMO Alpina, and toured Aman Rosa Alpina and Miramonti. Work with me and you get Fora perks, typically a space-available upgrade, daily breakfast and a hotel credit, plus someone who knows these hotels personally and personalizes your stay, down to the trains, private drivers, mountain guides and helicopters that make the Dolomites easy. Same rate as booking direct.
The Dolomites aren’t one place. Each base suits a different trip.
My favorite first — and every one is right for someone.
Alpine wellness retreat
The best view of the Odle of any luxury hotel in the region, from your room, the restaurant, the pools and the spa. Ask for a high floor in the tower closest to the lodge. Adults 14 and over in the hotel; families book the five-bedroom Forestis Villa.
Keith’s notes
Your floor and tower matter, and only a request secures them. There’s no separate room category for higher floors or a particular tower; a tower suite can be on any floor of any of the three towers. The best views of the Odle are from the fourth or fifth floor and above, in the tower closest to the historic lodge and in the middle tower, where you’re above the tree line. Securing one of those is the real upgrade here, and it’s exactly what I push for with the team for my clients.
The lodge suites are good value. The suites in the historic lodge are spacious and well priced. If the tower suites are beyond the budget, I’d happily book one.
Expect German and Austrian sauna culture. The main sauna area is mixed. You walk around in a towel or robe, but it comes off in the saunas and steam room, which is normal in this corner of Italy. Your body isn’t supposed to touch the wood, so you sit or lie on your towel in the saunas, and on a small towel in the steam room. There’s also a swimsuit sauna if you prefer.
The verdict
For peace and quiet, wellness, great food and awe-inspiring views, there’s nowhere better in the Dolomites.
Renovated alpine hotel in town
An incredible spa, a great gym and service to match. Book a Superior Deluxe or above, and come outside of July and August. Not ski-in, ski-out, but the lifts are close.
Keith’s notes
Avoid peak summer if you want quiet. Ortisei is a busy town in July and August. Spring, early summer, September and October are when it shines.
Seceda needs a plan. The Seceda lift is busy and needs a time-slotted ticket bought in advance; in summer I imagine it can be an awful experience. You can reach the same area via the Col Raiser lift from Santa Cristina, about 10 minutes away by car or transfer. Better still is a private guide who knows when and where to go, which I arrange.
Expect German and Austrian sauna culture. The main sauna areas are mixed, men and women together. You’ll walk around the spa in a towel or robe, but swimsuits and wraps come off in the saunas and steam rooms. Your body isn’t supposed to touch the wood, so you sit or lie on your towel in the saunas, and on a small towel in the steam rooms. It’s completely normal in this corner of Italy; the pools are swimsuit areas.
The verdict
The best base in the Dolomites: beautifully renovated, well rounded, and in the best town for restaurants and hiking.
Aman mountain hotel
A beautiful restoration of the old Rosa Alpina, in classic Aman wood and marble. The suites are the star. Intimate views rather than dramatic ones, and the lifts are two minutes away by shuttle.
Keith’s notes
Not the place for big views. If a sweeping panorama is the point, look at Forestis or COMO Alpina.
Winter minimum stays are unclear. The hotel told me there’s a seven-night minimum in winter, but sample searches don’t show it. I confirm the rules directly with the team before you plan around them.
Expect German and Austrian sauna culture. The main sauna areas are mixed, men and women together. You’ll walk around the spa in a towel or robe, but swimsuits and wraps come off in the saunas and steam rooms. Your body isn’t supposed to touch the wood, so you sit or lie on your towel in the saunas, and on a small towel in the steam rooms. It’s completely normal in this corner of Italy; the pools are swimsuit areas.
The verdict
The most luxurious stay in the Dolomites. Book a suite, and come in winter or summer when San Cassiano is buzzing.
Mountain wellness hotel
Walk out of your room onto the trails or the slopes. Not quite the hotel Forestis, Gardena or Aman is, but the price reflects that, and the spa and pool hold their own. Mind the chairlift outside the Mountain View rooms.
Keith’s notes
Watch out for the chairlift by the Mountain View rooms. There’s a chairlift right outside them, so they can feel a little loud and not very private as people come up to hike and explore. I hadn’t anticipated it before arriving. In winter I don’t think it would bother you much, but in the shoulder season it’s very much in your view. Tell me how you’re traveling and I’ll steer you to the right room.
Your car needs a permit. The Alpe di Siusi is a protected area, and the road up is restricted. The hotel handles the permit; a private transfer avoids the question entirely.
Expect German and Austrian sauna culture. The main sauna areas are mixed, men and women together. You’ll walk around the spa in a towel or robe, but swimsuits and wraps come off in the saunas and steam rooms. Your body isn’t supposed to touch the wood, so you sit or lie on your towel in the saunas, and on a small towel in the steam rooms. It’s completely normal in this corner of Italy; the pools are swimsuit areas.
The verdict
My first choice for a ski trip, and tied with Gardena Grödnerhof for summer.
Quirky design hotel
The best outdoor pool of any hotel I saw in the region, beautiful views over Merano, and rooms that are each designed differently. Character over polish.
Keith’s notes
It’s not really the Dolomites. Merano is a lovely base, but it’s outside the main Dolomites valleys. For hiking among the famous peaks, base yourself in Ortisei or on the Alpe di Siusi.
Character over polish. It isn’t a top-tier luxury hotel experience. If service and finish matter most, look at Forestis or Aman Rosa Alpina.
Expect German and Austrian sauna culture. The main sauna areas are mixed, men and women together. You’ll walk around the spa in a towel or robe, but swimsuits and wraps come off in the saunas and steam rooms. Your body isn’t supposed to touch the wood, so you sit or lie on your towel in the saunas, and on a small towel in the steam rooms. It’s completely normal in this corner of Italy; the pools are swimsuit areas.
The verdict
A great hotel for the right traveler, and an easy add-on at either end of a Dolomites trip.
The two big lift-served landscapes are completely different, and both start in Ortisei.
The Dolomites take more planning than most of Italy. I handle all of it.
My full ranking has every hotel side by side, with category winners for wellness, views, skiing, families, honeymoons, pools and more.
“The Dolomites in July, hiking” is a complete answer. I’ll take it from there.